A couple new members of the family

One of the best things about loving and studying wine is the constant discovery of new styles and varietals. Letting go of your own favorite brand and diving into the unknown can indeed be frightening but it’s where growth and discovery lie. My goal with the wine list here at Bitto is to try and make the process of discovery less intimidating but still exciting. At last count, our flight and glass list represents over 60 different varietals! Picking a favorite is impossible, some wines shine by themselves, some need a cloudy day, some need food, some work with dessert and some work best with breakfast!

We’ve recently brought in a number of new wines and I wanted to show off just a couple of the new faces. The Godello had a great following, but the new vintage didn’t live up to the last one so I found a new Spanish white that I’m now in love with. It’s the Mustiguillo Mestizahe from the hills outside Valencia not far from Don Quixote’s plains of La Mancha. Here at almost 2500 ft, Toni Sarrión has almost singlehandedly saved the indigenous Merseguera from extinction. These cool hillsides are also great for the notoriously challenging Viognier. This organic blend of 75% Merseguera, 20% Viognier and 5% Malvasia brings so much to the table retailing at only $14 a bottle (in the Wine Cellar). Viognier’s floral and candied apricot nose, soft white peach flavors are present and envelop the sturdy body and bracing citrus acidic foundation of Merseguera. The limestone shows subtly as the wine warms and even more flavors of pear, Meyer lemon and a hint of herb become apparent. Bottom line is bottom’s up!

When our Washington Merlot suddenly left the market, (it happens a lot in Colorado) I searched for another domestic Merlot. While they seem to be a dime a dozen (not literally), I strive to serve wines that are grown, produced and bottled by the folks on the label. I’m sorry, but if you made your name at the Judgement of Paris, or have a Wine Speculator 95pt estate grown wine, trading in on your name recognition with bulk juice from the Central Valley in a pretty package (add some edgy name or sexy picture) is not the kind of “discovery” I’m shooting for here at Bitto. I was tasting and tasting and tasting until I chanced upon a lovely Italian Merlot from the Veneto. I know I have a lot of Italians, but sometimes you can’t help yourself (I married an Italian after all!).

Corvina grapes drying for AmaroneThe Veneto is home to a special technique known as Appasimento (finished wines are named Passito wines). This process involves drying the grapes to concentrate flavors and sugars prior to fermentation. The most famous example of these wines are the Amarones. My personal theory is the Venetians were jealous of the fame (justifiable) of their neighbors in the Piedmont who crafted the magically monstrous Barolos and Barbarescos from the ethereal Nebbiolo. Their own thin skinned grapes were much better suited for light quaffable styles like Bardolinos and Valpolicellas unless they found a way to strengthen the must and hence boost alcohol and concentration. But they have been doing this style since Roman times, and yes, I’ve completely diverged from my WA Merlot challenge but bear with me as I circle back!

Merlot has been grown in the Veneto and in neighboring Friuli for a few hundred years and does very well there, bringing softness to acidic or tannic wines although we don’t yet see much of it here in Colorado. Bertoldi’s Gran Passione is a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Corvina (the most important grape in Amarone) with the Corvina dried on mats in the appasimento process. What ends up in the bottle is a delicious “baby Amarone”, an affordable introduction to this style of wine that suits American palates perfectly. Intense aromas of plum, cocoa and blackberry greet you and flavors of blackberry chocolate covered blueberries with a ripe tannic foundation round out the tasting experience. And it retails for about $15!

Obviously with about a dozen or more new wines coming onto the list this month, I can’t describe them here but will try to tell a few more stories about our new additions in the coming weeks and months! Got to run taste some rose's for our direct import this summer...


Barney


Orchard Wine Cellar Movers and Shakers This Week

  • Armas de Guerra Rose

    #1 Armas de Guerra Rose

    My heavens! 50+ year old, organic Mencia vines from some of the highest vineyards in Bierzo. Subtle aromas of strawberry, pink grapefruit and white pepper play with clean river rock minerality touched by zesty key lime. Balance and finish are tied together with a vibrating acidity. Structured and executed like a world class ballerina doing flamenco. Sells out every year for good reason. Lighter than Provence, a different planet than White Zin. The only hard part is only opening one bottle at a time.
    (Holding the #1 spot)

  • Tintero Moscato

    #2 Tintero Moscato

    Sori Gramella refers to the one of the only single vineyard Moscatos, and Marco is the only producer to bottle this striking limestone amphitheater commercially. Once the 30 year old vines give up their bounty, and the grapes are harvested and pressed, they are kept in stainless steel at a low temperature to prevent fermentation until an order is received in order to provide the freshest wine possible. (behind by 32 bottles)

  • Gran Passione

    #3 Gran Passione

    From the land of Amarone comes a delicious Merlot based blend. To perfectly ripe Merlot (60%) is added juice from dried Corvina grapes ala Amarone. Rich, deep and smooth, this is a remarkable Merlot that may just change your Merlot worldview! (behind by 8 bottles)

  • Peter Adler Auslese Riesling

    #4 Peter Adler Auslese Riesling

    An amazing value for Auslese (certified ripeness) fruit from Germany's Mosel River Valley. Classic light petroleum and mineral nose yet flavor sweet and soft with hints of apricots and vanilla cake. A great German staple with pork of all kinds and cheeses from soft Brie to hard Gouda. (behind by 7 bottles)

Fun New Arrivals

  • Amon Ra

    Amon Ra

    The 2014 Amon Ra reflects the tried and true essence of the Glaetzer style - generosity of flavor with finesse of structure. The inky purple color displays the gentle but full extraction. The nose shows an abundance of dark blueberry, vanilla, black cherry and hints of cassis with notes of mixed spice and anise. Although still young and firmly wound, the vibrant blackberry and dried spice flavors integrate well with youthful yet supple tannins with the trademark loooong and sleek finish. Meant to go 10 to 15 years to hit its prime.

  • Farm to Table

    Farm to Table

    A fun and lighter style from the cool mountains of Victoria. Aromas of fresh strawberry, cherry jam flirt with notes of forest floor a touch of peppery oak. Lively cola and raspberry flavors with vibrant acidity. Darn good value too!

  • Chateau Redortier Beaumes de Venise

    Chateau Redortier Beaumes de Venise

    Wine geeks know of Gigondas and Vacqueras that show off Grenache like no other. Bordering both is Beaumes de Venise which is known for fortified Muscat. On a steep hillside (at 1500 ft!) twin sisters Sabine and Isabelle make this earthy, spicy blend of Grenache, Syrah and Counoise. A gorgeous wine.

  • Dancing Pines Gin

    Dancing Pines Gin

    A beautiful Colorado original. An aromatic, dry, refreshing spirit crafted with 6 botanicals, each contributing a unique component to the harmonious whole. Lovely bright citrus comes through on the finish prompting another sip, and another..